After the Duwayne Burnside performance on Sunday night, we went for a late-night breakfast at the St. Charles Tavern, one of a handful of 24-hour restaurants along the streetcar route on St. Charles Avenue uptown. The place was crowded in the wake of the Mardi Gras parades, balls, concerts and music events, but the service was relatively quick for the level of crowd, and the breakfast food was really good.
About eight hours later, we woke up and checked out of the condominium on Oak Street where we had been staying. We walked up the street to the Oak Street Cafe for breakfast, and as usual, the place was crowded. But because it was Lundi Gras, they were serving a special and extremely-limited menu, unfortunately. Still we managed to get a brunch, and then headed out on the way back to Senatobia and Memphis, stopping briefly in Ponchatoula. In Jackson, wanting seafood, we stopped at Drago’s, a New Orleans favorite that has since expanded to Jackson, and the workers were busy decorating the restaurant for Mardi Gras as we enjoyed our dinner of oysters and shrimp. It was fairly late when we made it back home, and I was glad that I was off work the next day.
I love catfish, and I love blues music, so when a place puts them together, like Hernando, Mississippi’s new Catfish Blues restaurant, I am intrigued, to say the least. Because in its earliest days, the restaurant was running as a buffet only, I had held off on trying it, but finally my girlfriend and I decided we could delay no longer, and we were pleasantly pleased with what we found. Catfish Blues is located east of downtown Hernando, near the railroad tracks on Commerce Street in a building meant to resemble a train depot. The room is expansive and cheerful, with plenty of blues memorabilia on the walls, including pictures of North Mississippi stars like Duwayne Burnside and the Rev. John Wilkins, and there is plenty of room for live music, which typically happens on Saturdays. On the Friday night we visited, there was no live music, but the star of the show was catfish, which comes in two ways. The traditional catfish has the usual cornmeal batter, while the “Robert Pettiway” is a New Orleans-style breading which more resembles what you would get at Middendorf’s in Louisiana or Tug’s Casual Cafe in Memphis. Its name commemorates Robert Petway, the bluesman who first recorded the song “Catfish Blues.” Altogether we found the service cheerful and the prices fairly reasonable. If it wasn’t the absolute best catfish we had ever had, it was darn good, and overall a pleasant experience. We will certainly return.
210 E Commerce St, #8
Hernando, MS 38632
As long as I have been travelling to the Monroe/Ruston/Grambling area, there has always been some restaurant on the West Monroe riverfront beside the DeSiard Street Bridge. When I really became aware of it, it was called Gabbeaux’s, and it was one of those place that I was always going to try but somehow never did. But about a year or so ago, it changed into a new place called Trapp’s, with a little brighter and cleaner ambiance. The Monroe area has lots of water, and thus lots of waterfront restaurants, but Trapp’s has a lovely setting indeed, as its deck overlooks the skyline of Monroe across the Ouachita River. And the food is incredible. Nothing particularly fancy, just the fried seafood specialties that people might expect when visiting Louisiana. The fried shrimp were excellent, and my plate was full of them. The french fries were golden brown and delicious, and there were hushpuppies as well. And all of this was to be enjoyed on a warm October evening, on the Ouachita River while listening to two talented acoustic musicians perform. While this was my first visit to Trapp’s, it certainly will not be my last.
The Mississippi River is a kind of river known as a “meander stream”, a type of river that constantly shortens its route from its source to the sea. The coils and loops it leaves behind are known as “oxbow lakes”, and these wide and deep lakes become great places for recreation. Horseshoe Lake, some 26 miles south of West Memphis, Arkansas is such an oxbow lake, and a popular weekend resort for Memphians, whose homes and cottages line the lakeshore. However, the lake area is short on restaurants, with the exception of Highwater Landing, an unexpected casual fine dining restaurant in the back of the local convenience store and gas station, Bonds Grocery. Entering the restaurant on a Friday night can be tricky, as the grocery store closes at 6 PM, and the side entrance to the back is not always easy to spot from the road. Despite the name, Highwater Landing is not on the lake, and does not have a waterfront view. Rather, the name is a reference to the infamous Flood of 1937, which inundated the nearby town of Hughes, Arkansas, and pictures of the flood in Hughes are on the walls behind the bar. The menu consists primarily of seafood, although there are also burgers, and ribeye steaks. Ribeye is not my favorite cut of steak, but this one was excellent and worth its price. Entrees come with two sides, and I chose a loaded baked potato and tater tots, both of which were excellent. Service is friendly and efficient, and the cozy, casual atmosphere makes the experience something like having dinner at someone’s home, all the more so as most of the customers and staff know each other. A small stage area near the entrance suggests that the Highwater Landing occasionally has live music, or perhaps a DJ. It’s definitely worth the drive out to Horseshoe Lake for a weekend escape from city life, but keep in mind that the Highwater Landing is open only on Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 5:30 PM to 8:30 PM.
15235 Highway 147 S
Horseshoe Lake, AR 72348
Tourists have undoubtedly heard that New Orleans is an island, but they seem to often forget that the city lies with a river at its front and a lake at its back. If they spend a lot of time at or near the river, they spend remarkably little at the lake, and that is a shame indeed, for the city’s lakefront is one of its most beautiful assets. Although Hurricane Katrina wrecked much of the lakefront of old, things are slowly building back, with several lakefront restaurants having opened in the last several years. I had reviewed Brisbi’s Lakefront Restaurant here in 2014, and there’s not much new to add, except to remind visitors that it is a great place for seafood, with an unbeatable view of Lake Pontchartrain from its upstairs deck.
Brisbi’s Lakefront Restaurant & Bar
7400 Lakeshore Drive
New Orleans, LA 70124
Usually people don’t celebrate their birthdays by working, but that is what Hill Country guitarist Eric Deaton did at The Crawdad Hole in Water Valley in May. Billed as a birthday party for Eric Deaton at the venerable restaurant that is owned by another great musician and record label owner, Justin Showah, my friend and I were astounded to find that Eric was performing himself with his band. We had figured that he would be chilling and enjoying other musicians playing, but his band sounded great and we had a lot of fun. It was equally fun to reconnect with Justin, and to enjoy some of the best steamed shrimp within a hundred miles of Memphis. His restaurant occasionally books live music, and I assume he still occasionally does things with his superb small record label, Hill Country Records.
Chisholm Lake in Lauderdale County, Tennessee is not the kind of place you find by accident. In fact, were it not for a small sign along Highway 51 just north of Ripley, I might never have heard of it at all. But on a trip back from Dyersburg one evening, I noticed a sign for the Chisholm Lake Store Restaurant, boasting of steaks and seafood, so I had been telling myself for several years that one day I would try it, and the other evening, I finally made a deliberate trip to Ripley to do so. Once in Ripley, finding the way to get to the restaurant is not difficult, as the road is called Chisholm Lake Road, but the lake is fairly far away from the town, and it takes awhile to get there. Once you enter the state’s wildlife management area, the road narrows, and soon you see Chisholm Lake, a beautiful oxbow lake surrounded by woods that once was a channel of the Mississippi River. Here and there are isolated fishing cottages and cabins, and then at the end of the road, a small collection of cottages and one obviously commercial building surrounded by cars, the Chisholm Lake Store. Despite the name, the store is actually a restaurant and bar, with a fun, convivial spirit and sports on the flat screen TV’s. There are no menus on tables, as you actually walk up to the bar and order before getting seated. The choices are fairly limited, but steak and crab are what people come for, and the ribeye steak dinner with baked potato and a salad bar is a great deal, although keep in mind that they have no cuts of steak other than ribeyes, and they take only cash, no credit or debit cards. Because you’re literally off the beaten path in the middle of nowhere, there’s also limited phone access and no internet to speak of, but it’s worth it for the good food, fun, and views of the setting sun over the lake. The Chisholm Lake Store is open only on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. It’s probably a good idea to call ahead to confirm that they are open.
Chisholm Lake Store
23 Chisholm Lake Camp Rd
Ripley, TN 38063
I had been invited by my friend Darren Towns, the bass drummer for TBC Brass Band, to go around with the band to their gigs on the Saturday of Satchmo Fest, and for the better part of the afternoon I had. But when I found out that there was an hour and a half interregnum between gigs, I decided to head out to Lake Pontchartrain and try a restaurant that I had been seeing for about a year but had never tried called The Blue Crab.
Elsewhere in this blog, I have discussed the odd fact that the seafood cuisine of New Orleans and of the Mississippi Gulf Coast are rather different, despite close proximity, and that while it has been fairly easy to find fried seafood in New Orleans, it has not been nearly as easy to find the kind of gourmet seafood that is fairly common in Biloxi, Gulfport or Bay St. Louis. That now seems to be changing, and while Hurricane Katrina decimated the old seafood restaurants on the West End, a couple of new restaurants have appeared along what New Orleanians call the Lakefront, and the Blue Crab is one of them.
All of the new restaurants along Lakeshore Drive have certain things in common, chief of which is beautiful views of the lake, the marina and the yacht club, and the Blue Crab is no exception. The view from its outdoor dining deck is truly amazing, and the resort ambiance is far more akin to something from Florida than something from Louisiana. As for the menu, there is little unusual for a New Orleans seafood place, and the prices are fairly reasonable. I opted for the fish of the day, which was pompano, and had it prepared in an almondine style, where the fish was breaded and fried, then topped with a butter-based almond sauce. As one might imagine, it was amazingly good, and accompanied by french fries that were golden brown and delicious. I chose to end my meal with a slice of key lime pie, which I enjoyed while watching the sun go down in the west over the marina. All in all, I was pleased with the Blue Crab, and will likely return.
THE BLUE CRAB RESTAURANT & OYSTER BAR
7900 Lakeshore Drive
New Orleans, La 70124
As I was driving into New Orleans on Saturday night, I noticed a restaurant on Lakeshore Drive that I had not noticed before, a place called Brisbi’s on the Lake that clearly has a waterfront view. There really have been few dining options on Lake Pontchartrain since Hurricane Katrina, which wiped out all of the classic seafood restaurants at West End Park. Part of it was due to delays in the issuing of new flood maps to see where building would be permitted, and part of it was also due to a considerable amount of red tape in building on the waterfront. Fortunately, both Brisbi’s and the Blue Crab opened late last summer, joining the Landry’s franchise in the former Joe’s Crab Shack location. Brisbi’s proved to be a delightful experience. Downstairs is a covered yet outdoor bar, with a deck alongside the water and brightly-colored picnic tables, and a band playing on an outdoor stage. Upstairs is a restaurant with a beautiful view of the harbor from both indoors and from the outdoor deck. While New Orleans is known for seafood, it’s almost always the fried variety, which I have always found surprising. By contrast, Brisbi’s has a menu that more resembles the restaurants in Bay St. Louis, Gulfport and Biloxi that I grew up eating at, with Redfish Meuniere or Almondine, and Fish Pontchartrain. I had the almondine redfish, and was amazed at how good it was. Of course there are po-boys and burgers for those who want something a little less formal, but Brisbi’s seems to have the best (non-fried) seafood in New Orleans. It’s definitely worth a visit, and for the food as well as the view.
Brisbi’s on the Lake
7400 Lakeshore Dr
New Orleans, LA 70124